I read many history books, a borderline obscene amount. But I completely own up to having a fair amount of gaps in that knowledge that need filled especially - things that aren't war related. I love books that tie to very specific places or time frames and this book is certainly that - the city of Berlin after the fall of the The Wall (which fell in November 1991). This is the second Berlin specific book I've read that I've really enjoyed, the other one is this one! I've got a special place in my heart for Berlin. The "dirty, sexy, cheap" city is expansive, vibrant and the two times I've been there I've always found myself wanting more time there. While reading this book I was browsing AirBnB listings which is...self cruelty right now. See you on the otherside of this shitshow, Berlin. Mwah!
Let's talk about what's interesting in this book:
-You know how in NYC on New Year's Eve a bunch of people gather in Time Square for the ball drop but an actual New Yorker would rather die then do that? In Berlin on New Year's the location is Brandenburg Gate but the people there are mostly Italian.
- The club scene in Berlin has always been a no holds barred, judgement free, free for all. (I mean, "Cabaret" is in Berlin between the wars for a reason).Hemingway said that nightlife in Berlin was "sordid, vicious and desperate". And you know Hemingway wasn't one to shy away from shenanigans. The current club scene involves not opening until midnight on Saturday and staying open until Tuesday morning. There's no "hey we can't sell booze after 2am so go home" because they can sell booze...whenever. It's also much cheaper than other big party capitals in the world. I have endless questions about this. Can I bring a change of clothes? I'm going to get sweaty if I'm dancing for 3 days. Are there snacks? Can I order food to get delivered to the club? Is there a place for me to power nap if I need it?
-The Berlin Wall came down, but, where did it go? There are pieces of the Berlin Wall in at least 125 locations around the world (when I say pieces I mean large chunks not paperweights) including on the campus of a Hawaiian' community college and at the country estate of a Cognac heiress. Most of it however, was reprocessed and was used to build highways in the former East Germany.
- There has been some really disturbing behavior against immigrants to Berlin, especially if they are obviously non-European (aka African immigrants, Asian immigrants). From the government AND from Germans. Immigrants had their passports confiscated, put in barracks, and had up to 12% of their paycheck seized. There's been some incredibly violent outbursts against these groups too, including a group of armed Germans burning down a building that housed a hostel for Vietnamese contract workers. Or more than one incident about far-right groups going on the prowl with baseball bats "looking for black people to beat up".
Germany (like so many other countries) needs to take a look at themselves and figure out what fundamental attitudes need to change to make a better Berlin and Germany. Germany isn't just for Hoffmanns and Wagners it's also for Nguyens and Alis. You know who had a huge hand in rebuilding Berlin after the war? Immigrants. You know how when you think about German food you think about spaetzle but also kebobs? Hmm, wonder why.
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